.!! You Need to Check this TAG Heuer WAT1111 BA0950 Silver Watch
If you've made it this far, I assume that you're pretty serious about finding the "right" Swiss diver. Perhaps some insights on my own purchase process may prove helpful to you as well. First off, they have an AWFUL photo-illustration of this watch here on Amazon. It looks much better in person. Do some Google image searches.
The Oris brand seems to maintain a relatively low profile here in the U.S. I am absolutely convinced that big brands like Rolex and Omega offer no better quality, yet they are 3 to 6 times the price of an Oris. Part of it has to do with advertising budgets, endorsements, race sponsorships etc., which the consumer ultimately pays for...or not. I'm a former owner of an Omega Seamaster Professional. It was a wonderful, beautiful watch, but over time, I grew weary of having to take it in to get the battery replaced and having the dealer recommend a $130 "pressure test" service each time. Blah. Also, at least here in jaded Los Angeles, it never carried the status that I expected. I wore it every day but I never really got any compliments on it. So this time around, it would definitely be an automatic. But even though a nice used Seamaster would cost around $1,700, I was never really serious about going the Omega route again.
My competitive set included the Christopher Ward Triton C60, the Longines Hydroconquest, Mido Ocean Star Captain IV, Alpina Extreme Sailing AL-525LB4V6B (older model), Archimede SportTaucher A and the Certina DS Action Diver. I'm at the point in my life (45) where I value quality and style above status. I am open to boutique brands as well. Oftentimes, you deal directly with the manufacturer, which can make them an excellent value. Part of the problem with so many of these diver watches is that their designs are close derivatives of the Rolex Submariner. I felt that the Oris had a slightly more original design than many other options. I also liked the convenient and secure push-button "Omega-style" deployment clasp on the bracelet. The Ward is the only other model in this group that offers that feature. Also, the finish on the clasp is not as polished as what I had on my Omega, making the Oris a bit more resistant to scratches from "desk diving."
I got very close to ordering the Ward, but I found a deal on a used Oris and decided to go for it. Don't be concerned about the 44mm case dimension. It bulges slightly on the sides then tapers in, making the bezel more like a 40mm-42mm. The result is that it "wears small," as they say. The bracelet, however, is for real. It measures about 24mm at the widest point, making it about 4mm wider than the standard 20mm bracelet. I believe that the links may also be solid, making this bracelet a chunky and somewhat heavy affair. That needs to work for you completely, as changing out this bracelet is somewhat impractical. It's "integrated" into the case, so you can't swap in a different 24mm band. I had no plans to switch from the steel bracelet, so this was a non-issue for me. Performance wise, the Sellita SW 200-1 movement gains less than 3 seconds per day, which is well under the +/- 15 seconds per day spec for the ETA 2824 that you'll find in most watches in this category.
I recommend the Oris Divers Date and would probably buy it again if given the opportunity.
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